Preview of Half An Hour From Paris, to be published October 2017
HALF AN HOUR FROM PARIS
Diagram map showing journey times by train/bus from Paris
Map of the Ile de France showing destinations
Rail map of the Ile de France showing destinations
The Ile de France: past and present
How to use this guide
GARE DU NORD
1. Parc de la Poudrerie
2 km walk along the Canal de l’Ourcq to the astonishing remains of a 19C gunpowder factory hidden in a woodland park and nature reserve. Return from Vert-Galant station or optional 3 km continuation of the canalside walk to Villeparisis station.
20 minutes by train
GARE DE L’EST
2. Lagny sur Marne
Lively medieval market town, impressive 13C church, café with toilettes containing bas-relief and lavabo of 12C church, restaurant. Optional 5 km riverside walk to monumental outdoor sculptures carved by local artist and bus to Val d’Europe station.
23 minutes by train
12C cathedral and Bossuet’s 17C walled garden at Meaux, restaurant. Optional 10 km walk along the quiet Canal de Chalifert, past old village with café-restaurant where Ronsard was curé in 1552 and another café in idyllic riverside setting, to Esbly station.
24 minutes by train
4. La Ferté sous Jouarre
42 minutes by train
CHATELET LES HALLES
5. Neuilly Plaisance
1 km walk along the River Marne to 1960s guinguette for drink/lunch/dancing. Return to Neuilly Plaisance or option of 2.8 km walk along Canal de Chelles, then bus or 2 km walk to Chelles-Gournay station.
16 minutes by train
4 km walk along the River Bièvre and tea in garden of 18C Château de Roches, now a museum to Victor Hugo. Return from Vauboyen station or optional 2½ km continuation of country walk to Jouy en Josas station, past 12C Madonna in church, Oberkampf’s 18C textile workshop, café with garden.
37 minutes by train
7. Château de Vincennes
Impressive 14C castle and donjon in Bois de Vincennes, medieval royal residence and seat of government. Good-value traditional brasserie for lunch. Optional 3 km walk through the park past the Lac des Minimes to the little-known Jardin Tropicale containing abandoned pavilions from the 1907 Exposition Coloniale, returning from Nogent sur Marne station.
17 minutes by métro
PONT DE NEUILLY METRO
8. Parc de Bagatelle
10 minutes by bus
LA DEFENSE RER/METRO
Bus ride and short walk to 17C Château de Malmaison, home of Josephine and Napoleon. Lunch in nearby brasserie with garden and return by bus to La Défense. Optional 10-minute bus ride to Moroccan restaurant at Bougival. Return by bus to Nanterre Préfecture station or optional 3½ km walk along the Seine to Rueil-Malmaison station.
25 minutes by bus
GARE ST LAZARE
10. Marly le Roi
3½ km walk through old village of Marly le Roi and park of Louis XIV’s vanished château, past 17C aqueduct, 11C church and former homes of Elisabeth Vigée Lebrun, Auguste Renoir and Anaïs Nin to Louveciennes station. Optional 1 km continuation past Mme du Barry’s former château at Louveciennes, downhill to the Seine past viewpoints painted by the Impressionists and remains of the Machine de Marly at Bougival, returning to La Défense by bus from Bougival. Optional 4½ km continuation of riverside walk to Rueil-Malmaison station.
33 minutes by train
On the tourist trail: Versailles, Giverny, Fontainebleau, Auvers sur Oise
Getting around the Ile de France
The cultural context
Getting into the local rhythm, the pleasures of provincial life, the love of numbers, the French attitude to information
Public transport: types of ticket, trains, buses, taxis, boats, bicycles, walking, maps, useful sources of information, books, bookshops
Best days to visit
Train traveller’s glossary
Chronology of French rulers
Preface in full
An Hour From Paris, a guide to 20 rewarding but little-known daytrips within an hour of Paris by train, first appeared in 2002 and is now in its third edition. I wrote the book I would have liked to have had in my hand when I first arrived in Paris from London in 1991. I needed to know how to get into the surrounding countryside by train, what was worth seeing, how long the journey would take, and how to get back without necessarily returning to my starting point. I also wanted enough local and historical information to appreciate the context of what I was seeing, a clear local map and directions, and honest comments on what I was likely to find en route, including food.
Part of my impulse to explore beyond Paris came from the need to get into the countryside and escape crowds, especially other visitors. So I also wanted to know which wild flowers and animals I might see. Ideally I wanted to be able to walk for pleasure as well as by necessity, if possible by a stream or river, but not for too long before reaching a café or a station.
No such book existed, so I started exploring the train network around Paris with a copy of the green Michelin guide to the Ile de France in my hand instead. As it was written for car drivers many of its recommendations turned out to be impractical, but the places themselves were always rewarding. Some of them, such as Conflans Sainte Honorine, became the starting point for further explorations on foot as I began to appreciate just how interesting and accessible the Paris countryside is, and how little-known it is to most Parisians, let alone foreigners. It took several years of happy exploration and discovery before I realised that I had enough material to write the book I had always wanted to read.
The subsequent success of An Hour From Paris has led many readers to ask for a sequel. I resisted this for some time, as their assumption and mine was that I would have to travel further afield to find rewarding new daytrips, probably called Two Hours From Paris. But when I came to look over the notes I had accumulated over 20 years, I saw that there were plenty of places in the Ile de France that I had not included in An Hour From Paris which might be worth re-visiting, as the train service had improved so much that many of them were now far more accessible. I did re-visit them, over several years, and was delighted to make further discoveries, such as the country walks around Auvers sur Oise and Maintenon. Meanwhile Paris friends kept giving me ideas for new destinations within an hour of Paris, such as Marly le Roi and the Parc de la Poudrerie, and I discovered others myself, such as the Canal de Chalifert at Meaux and Nesles la Vallée. Finally I decided to put ten of these trips taking around half an hour by train into a shorter book called Half An Hour From Paris, and to make ten trips taking around an hour available as payable pdf downloads from my website, called 10 New Trips An Hour From Paris, for readers already familiar with the first book.
Of the ten destinations described in Half An Hour From Paris, the oldest ones with Roman or medieval origins, Lagny, Meaux and La Ferté sous Jouarre, are to the east of Paris where few tourists go, as are the most surprising places to be found just outside Paris: the Château de Vincennes, Parc de la Poudrerie and Neuilly Plaisance. Igny to the south and Parc de Bagatelle, Malmaison and Marly le Roi to the west developed between the 17th and 19th centuries mainly as a result of their proximity to Versailles. Today they are prosperous suburbs concealing an interesting history, but little-known to foreign visitors.
Of the ten destinations in 10 New Trips An Hour From Paris, described on the end page of this book, Nesles la Vallée and Auvers sur Oise to the north west are picturesque villages with rewarding walks, including a prehistoric tomb, the Trou à Morts. The medieval market town of Coulommiers to the east has the astonishing Commanderie of the Knights Templar. Samoreau to the south east by the Seine is also of medieval origin, as are the former citadels of Nemours, Grez sur Loing and Château-Landon in the Loing valley and Dourdan to the south west. Maintenon and Petit Jouy in the south west owe their development to their proximity to Versailles. They all take around an hour to reach by train; the furthest is Château-Landon, 74 minutes from Paris. Auvers sur Oise is the only one which is well-known, but it includes optional walks to three little-known alternative stations nearby. Most of the optional walks are around 6 km, slightly longer than the ones in Half An Hour From Paris.
Although there is now far more information about the Ile de France available online than there was when I first started exploring, some of it derived from An Hour From Paris, these lesser-known places tend to be mentioned superficially or not at all. Not everything is available online, especially if it is out of the way. The modest cafés I discovered years ago by the Seine at Samoreau and Héricy are still owned by the same people and you can still swim there, but the only way for me to check those facts was to go there again. These places are not interested in publicity and do not have websites. To the best of my knowledge the existence of the medieval stone bas-relief of St Furcy in the toilettes of the Café St Furcy at Lagny is known only to local people, who do not spare it a glance. It is not mentioned by the tourist office. It is true that I could not have located the Trou à Morts near Nesles la Vallée without my phone’s GPS. But Google does not go into details of how to get there by train, nor what it is actually like to walk there.
The thrill of discovering places like these a stone’s throw from Paris is what makes exploration off the beaten track so rewarding. I hope that you will enjoy these trips as much as I have enjoyed discovering and researching them.